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On March 3, 2005, Jessica and Tim set off on an epic 18-month round-the-world adventure. That trip may be over now, but the storytelling has only just begun!
This website is here both as a record of our trip and a resource for other travelers. Please feel free to leave us a comment at the bottom of our journal entries!
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First stop: Krong Ko Kong, a surprisingly charming little border-town. Then it's down to Sihanoukville, where we'll avoid the sleaze and enjoy the beaches. Next up: the sleepy town of Kampot (and the creepy Bokor Hill Station, nearby). After that we're off to Phnom Penh, the nation's capital and guardian of its tragic history. Then we follow the Mekong up to Kratie, home to the rare Irrawaddy dolphins. Finally, it's over to Siem Reap to take in the mind-boggling temples of Angkor, then back across the border to Thailand!
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An Introduction to Cambodia
What’s astounding about Cambodia isn’t the choking density of the tropical rainforest, or the glorious majesty of Angkor Wat, or the power of the mighty Mekong River. (Well, actually, all of those are astounding, but none are the astounding bit I’m talking about here.) [read more...]
[15 comments]
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Afternoon at the Haunted Hotel
It is a huge and terrifying structure. It’s no surprise that the first reaction most people have to the Bokor Palace is to be instantly reminded of the nightmarish hotel from the film The Shining. And like its fictional counterpart, the ground the Palace sits upon is blood-soaked. [read more...]
[12 comments]
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Snapshots of the City
Most travelers tend to pop into Phnom Penh just long enough to see the major sights, get the bejeesus scared out of them by the traffic, and move on. Not us. Ever the lazy, slow-moving hedgehogs, we spent 13 days there. [read more...]
[9 comments]
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The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
When we first started planning our trip, we knew there were two main reasons for visiting Cambodia. First, to visit the mighty Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples located near the town of Siem Reap. And second, to visit a museum called Tuol Sleng located in Phnom Penh. [read more...]
[7 comments]
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Deep-Fried Tarantulas
Warning: This entry concerns the consumption of enormous spiders by your friendly neighborhood hedgehogs. If you are disturbed by spiders, you may not wish to read this entry or see any of the pictures within. You have been warned… [read more...]
[10 comments]
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San San, the Mekong River Dolphin
On the western shore of the wide Mekong River, a world away from the hustle and bustle of noisy Phnom Penh, the tiny town of Kratie slumbers. The small handful of visitors it receives tend to drop by for one of two reasons: either to see the dolphins, or to catch a night’s sleep on the bumpy road down from Laos. [read more...]
[13 comments]
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Teaching in Kratie, Cambodia
We taught classes that night and the following two nights too. Every class was different for us because we switched students and teachers each day. On average each class had 15 students in it, although Tim had one class with nearly 40 students one night. [read more...]
[10 comments]
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Let’s Talk About Monks, Baby
Until we got to Kratie, we had little interaction with monks outside of making way for them on sidewalks (they’re not permitted to touch women, so as a courtesy Jessica would always give them a wide berth). But that was about to change. [read more...]
[5 comments]
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Three Kilos of Fruit and an Origami Pig
The Lonely Planet guide to Cambodia advises when visiting a Cambodian’s home it is polite, although not expected, to bring a small gift for the family. I had no idea when I read that piece of advice that I would actually use it. [read more...]
[11 comments]
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Ten of our Favorite Angkor Photos
During our six days in Siem Reap, we explored not just Angkor Wat, but many other temples as well. There are in fact somewhere around seventy temples and other ruins in the area, each one more beautiful than the last. [read more...]
[12 comments]
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Five Tips for Enjoying Cambodia
So, yes, we did indeed return for a second pass at our beloved Cambodia. That we were so enamored with this beleagured nation begs a simple question… Why? [read more...]
[18 comments]
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The Long Road to Krong Koh Kong
This story happened the few days before it was time for us to cross the border back into Thailand once again. It is a story we deliberately did not tell while we were traveling in order not to worry our families unnecessarily. [read more...]
[12 comments]
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A Day in Kampot
Kampot is the essence of why we fell in love with Cambodia. This sleepy provincial town could not be more removed from the hustle and bustle of hectic Phnom Penh. Instead of cars and motorcycles, here it seems virtually everyone travels by bicycle. [read more...]
[6 comments]
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First stop: Krong Ko Kong, a surprisingly charming little border-town. Then it's down to Sihanoukville, where we'll avoid the sleaze and enjoy the beaches. Next up: the sleepy town of Kampot (and the creepy Bokor Hill Station, nearby). After that we're off to Phnom Penh, the nation's capital and guardian of its tragic history. Then we follow the Mekong up to Kratie, home to the rare Irrawaddy dolphins. Finally, it's over to Siem Reap to take in the mind-boggling temples of Angkor, then back across the border to Thailand!

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