Hedgehogs Without Borders
   

Hedgehogs Without Borders

On March 3, 2005, Jessica and Tim set off on an epic 18-month round-the-world adventure. That trip may be over now, but the storytelling has only just begun!

This website is here both as a record of our trip and a resource for other travelers. Please feel free to leave us a comment at the bottom of our journal entries!

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Homeless in Istanbul Posted by Tim on Nov 9, 2005 | 1381 reads
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 Thankful in Turkey 

Having a home is important.

When we started out on our trip, we found a certain amount of humor in the fact that we were officially unemployed and homeless. As time went on, though, we came to realize we weren’t acutally homeless at all. We find ourselves a new home in every city and town we visit.

The first thing we do in each new home is to “nest” there: sticking photos of our loved ones on the mirror, putting our clothes away in the dresser, layout our toiletries out neatly on a shelf in the bathroom. These little things go a long way into turning a hostel room into a place you can call home for a week. And having a home is important.

Once the room you’re staying in feels like your home, you have a place to escape to when the world outside the window gets too noisy or overwhelming. You have a place to go when you can’t handle not understanding anything anyone is saying, or you want to be able to relax without anyone trying to sell you anything. Once you have a place like that to retreat to, the world outside the window isn’t so intimidating anymore.

But you have to find the right place first. It has to be something in your price-range, obviously, but it has to be much more than that too, if it’s going to be able to be a home. It has to be bright and clean, a place where you actively enjoy spending time, and it has to feel safe and friendly. Finding a place that fits all those requirements can be a challenge. And it tends to be the first thing you have to do when you get to a new town, before you know your way around, before you’ve had a chance to slip off your backpack.

Case in point: Istanbul.

When we first got to Istanbul, we were filled with excitement and wonder. Turkey was, without a doubt, the most exotic country by far we’d be visiting until we hit Southeast Asia. And after seven months of Spanish and English, there was something exciting about being in a place where neither of us spoke a lick of the language. We couldn’t wait to get started.

It was on the train from the airport to the tourist district of Sultanhamet that I started to feel a little overwhelmed. The skies were dark and threatening to rain, and I was exhausted from jetlag and adrenaline fatigue. I desperately wanted to be able to take off my backpack and slide into bed somewhere, until I was ready to face Istanbul. I fervently hoped we’d find somewhere to stay quickly.

Alas, it was not to be so. The Lonely Planet guide we have is a couple of years old (it turns out they just released a new edition, dammit), and its descriptions and price listings for the first dozen places we checked out were way off. We were under a little bit of a budget crunch at the time, and had cut Italy and much of Greece under the assumption that Turkey would be a lot cheaper. Moreover, we had a flight booked out of Athens on December 20th, and needed to be able to stay in Turkey comfortably for a couple of months. In that first hour or two checking out hostels, we started to worry that we’d made a horrible mistake. (Well, ok, I started to worry. Jessica was positive and supportive during my moment of panic.)

And then we found a home.

Just a five-minute walk from the Hippodrome, Aya Sofia, and the Blue Mosque, there’s a place called the Türkman Hotel and Pension. We found a room there that we instantly knew would be our home for the next week or two. It was bright and clean and felt comletely safe. The staff were friendly and welcoming, especially the clerk behind the desk, who looked a lot like Joey from Friends and who would spend the next fortnight teaching us a couple of words of Turkish every day. The room had cable TV, air-conditioning and a mini-fridge, splashy luxuries that we were thrilled to find falling within our budget. And then there was the view.

We had a huge balcony, and it looked out onto the Sea of Marmara. We could see the shores of Asia to our left, Europe to our right, and dozens and dozens of ships docked in the harbor before us. But most spectacularly, directly in front of us, between us and the sea, was a breathtakingly beautiful 500-year-old mosque.

We were home.

We checked in, slipped off our bags, and took a nice long nap. We were awoken by the sounds of singing, and stumbled out onto our balcony to hear the Muslim call to prayer, ringing out from “our” mosque and from the hundreds of others in Istanbul. Each mosque sang its own song, and they echoed through the city as sky began to darken into evening. We were rendered speechless by the beauty of it all.

Istanbul was an exciting new part of our adventure, and we couldn’t wait to begin exploring it. In the two weeks that followed, we fell in love with it, and with Turkey itself.

And it never would have happened if we hadn’t found that home.



:: Comment by Tracy at 01:37 PM on Nov 9, 2005 ::

That’s on hell of a view.

I’m glad you guys are finding home where you need it.

:: Comment by other jess at 10:07 PM on Nov 9, 2005 ::

my view is of the oil refineries by the river. of course i do get to hear the call to prayer every few hours from the mosque.

i like the idea of making home. InstaHome, just add water. The other home you guys have is each other. More than just the nesting.

:: Comment by Shana at 01:10 AM on Nov 10, 2005 ::

getting chills just reading about it.

:: Comment by daddy at 04:36 AM on Nov 10, 2005 ::

hi i just got home from work the first time in eight days and it is nice to have someplace to call home. so i thought i check up on my two favorite hedgehogs , i dont get to this as often as i like. last time i was home i read tims posting on your birthday and got quite misty eye and couldnt see to type. so im going to spend the next hour trying tocatch up on your adventures love to both and take care really missing you at 4:30 est .love always daddy woof meow chirp and binkies

:: Comment by daddy at 05:26 AM on Nov 10, 2005 ::

all caught up now but extremely worried about atms

:: Comment by Broken Weebel at 11:41 PM on Nov 10, 2005 ::

Although this is an extremely BEAUTIFUL peice I nevertheless must ask my beloved bro this question: *ahem!* If you’re in Turkey around Thanksgiving does that mean you’re stuffing? *Tee-Hee* Sorry, but I couldn’t resist being a smart ass…

Love/hugs to you both from you’re annoying little siiiiiiiiiiister,

Me

:: Comment by Gemma and Stu at 11:58 PM on Nov 12, 2005 ::

Hey guys
Remember us,
Just sat looking at photos and thought that we would drop you a line.
So SO impressed with what we have read so far you guys are great and we love you.
We are in New Zealand now, will you be getting over this way at all we have a cool flat here and you are more than welcome to park your backpacks here any time you like.
Love you guys well done and keep on doing what your doing,
Love you both Forever
Gem and Stu

:: Comment by heather at 07:27 AM on Nov 14, 2005 ::

Stunning! Happy nesting!

:: Comment by Sandy at 08:05 PM on Nov 19, 2005 ::

Love seeing your travel photos and journal entries. its like being along on your trip. So thrilled that you are having the time of your life!

:: Comment by Maurice & Margot at 10:39 AM on Dec 2, 2005 ::

We have just caught up with your travels. FANTASTIC - from Johannesburg with love

 

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Turkey

:: Itinerary ::

We started our adventure in Turkey with two weeks in Istanbul. From there, we traveled to Cappadocia, to the village of Göreme, where we walked among the fairy chimneys. Next up: the village of Patara, where we saw ancient ruins on the beach. From there we worked our way along the coast to the cities of Fethiye and Marmaris. Afterwards, we headed north for a quick stop in Selçuk, to walk in the ancient city of Ephesus. Finally, we returned to Istanbul and boarded a flight for our next destination: Athens!


:: Map ::